The rise of SkinTok (TikTok’s niche skincare world) has taught me two things: That I don’t take good enough care of my skin, and I don’t know what acne looks like. My routine is simple. I wash my face daily, massage in some moisturizer, and occasionally apply some SPF when I don’t forget, shh don’t judge me. Acne never seemed to be a problem for me. Sure, I experienced some bumps here and there, but they didn’t match the image of blackheads or whiteheads I saw on those Proactiv commercials growing up.

Thus, I assumed I luckily escaped the “pre-teen acne” phase unscathed, and that adult acne was farfetched. At least, I believed that SkinTok until arrived. Influencers creating content on the tag were majority white. Still, as the popularity of the skincare segment grew on the platform, more content by creators of color began to circulate. One creator, in particular, pointed out the differences in acne appearances on melanated skin versus white skin. As my fingers hovered over my phone screen, I had a lightbulb moment: Did I have acne?
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The assumption may seem naive, but the reality is that there are fewer examples of what acne looks like in melanated skin.

Think about general descriptors, like red, puffy pimples, deep red bumps, or inflamed pores with a pinkish color. These characteristics are usually only applicable to non-melanated skin, making it harder for Black and Brown people to identify skin problems.

The struggle of identifying acne in colored skin is a shared experience, says Dr. Adebola Dele-Michael, MD, dermatologist, and medical director at Radiant Skin Dermatology and Laser. “Most acne care commercials and dermatology textbooks feature models with non-melanated skin,” Dr. Dele-Michael says. “This fuels the false impression that acne isn’t an issue for people with darker skin tones or that there are no treatments available for skin of color.” According to Dr. Dele-Michael, this perception is false, and there are many effective acne treatments available for people with dark skin tones.1

MEET THE EXPERT

Dr.Adebola Dele-Michael, MD is a board-certified dermatologist and medical director at Radiant Skin Dermatology and Laser in New York City. She is also an Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine.

Still, identifying acne on darker complexions isn’t that simple. According to Dr. Dele-Michael, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all model on how acne appears, but signs can indicate. For example, hyperpigmentation is typically a sign of an underlying skin or health condition. Other signs may include keloids or ingrown hairs.2

Even if you can identify hyperpigmentation or keloids on your skin, the challenge of recognizing whiteheads, blackheads, cysts, and noodles remain. As a solution, Dr. Dele-Michael recommends a board-certified dermatologist who can correctly identify any acne on your skin and advise proper treatment. “Acne can be difficult to diagnose for people with darker skin tones because the condition can appear differently for everyone,” she says. “I recommend visiting a board-certified dermatologist with experience treating skin of color to avoid delays in diagnosis and treatment.”

However, finding a board-certified dermatologist with experience in skin color can be another upheaval. Dermatology is a predominantly white medical field where experts of color make up a small percentage. This, plus the lack of education on melanated skin, can make it difficult for people of color to get the treatment they need, Dr. Dele-Michael explains. However, all hope isn’t lost. There are helpful resources like the Skin of Color Society that make it easier for people of color to find dermatologists who match their needs.

When visiting your dermatologist, Dr. Dele-Michael says your doctor will recommend the right products and treatments for your skin. They will also be able to diagnose any skin conditions accurately. Dr. Dele-Michael explains that in skin of color, conditions like rosacea and ingrown hairs can mimic acne, so you may not even have acne at all. The complexity of diagnosing skin conditions makes it even more important to consult a dermatologist first.

I didn’t find a dermatologist to prescribe treatment for my acne, but I began paying more attention by caring for those occasional bumps instead of ignoring them. I’ve also started using products specifically for Black skin to stop flare-ups before they occur.

While it’s still tricky to identify acne on my skin, it’s something I am aware I should be diligent about, given the lack of representation on acne in skin of color. While TikTok might seem like a tempting source, your best bet is talking to a dermatologist first and triple-checking any and every recommendation or tip to make the best decision for your skin.

Irarely miss the chance to get on my soapbox about the inconsistencies of before-and-after skincare photos. You know the kind—the before is usually taken in poor quality light, and the individual looks melancholy and dull-skinned. However, in the after photo, the individual is suddenly awash in bright, natural light, and there’s perhaps even a pinch of makeup involved. It perturbs me for a couple of reasons. First, it implies you’re an unhappy person if you have skin concerns. Also, it doesn’t accurately represent the transformation (however small or big) that’s occurred.

In other words, I would much rather see a subtle shift from a before-and-after than a drastic one that feels misleading. This is why when I came across Sofie Pavitt’s Instagram, I let out a rapturous “Finally!”

The NYC-based aesthetician and certified acne specialist (who also refers to herself as the “IRL face tuner”) feels like a breath of fresh air for anyone dealing with breakouts. As someone who used to have bouts of cystic pimples, I wish I had heard about Pavitt sooner. Though she’s garnered popularity for her Insta-worthy mask treatments (the hydrojelly one is remarkably soothing to watch), it’s her acne consultation program that has my interest permanently piqued. Ahead, get the scoop firsthand on why this type of customized skincare game plan may be for you.

What Is an Acne Consultation?

If you’re experiencing persistent breakouts that impact your day-to-day, it’s time to tap a professional Pavitt explains. “An initial consult can determine whether you’re a good candidate for a more ‘hand-held’ approach or if you just need gentle guidance,” she says. Many of her clients have become fed up with trying to fix their acne by themselves, so the consultation model works especially well. “They’re happy to let us guide them with bi-weekly check-ins,” Pavitt says. “On the flip side, we can recommend you to a dermatologist and work hand-in-hand with you while you’re using topicals and medications from them, too.

I always describe myself as an esthetician-meets-supporting actress to a dermatologist.”

All acne, she explains, begins with the over-shedding of skin cells. If you’re genetically predisposed to acne, your pores function differently. “[When this happens], a series of events take place—like oil production and bacteria—to cause a breakout, and this is why acne can feel cyclical,” she says. “Some weeks it’s fine, and some weeks are terrible.” On top of possibly being predisposed, things like menstruation and stress come into play. “It needs to be looked at with a 360-degree approach, and all aspects of what could be contributing to your breakouts—not just products—must be addressed.”

Pavitt also points to acne’s three-month lifespan as a reason to consider a consultation program. “From the beginnings of a microcomedone (the congestion of dead skin cells that cause a pore blockage) to a breakout fully forming as a pustule, you’re looking at around 12-16 weeks for that cycle to form fully,” she explains. “That’s why I think a lot of people fail when treating their own acne. They don’t spend long enough on a consistent routine to clear it.”

What Does the Program Involve?

Pavitt’s program focuses on root causes: diet, lifestyle choices, home care, and professional treatments. If you’re based in NYC, you can expect home care and twice-monthly follow-ups and treatments. The first meeting is a consultation with a treatment and sensitivity test. It rings in at $100. If you decide to move forward with the program, you take your whole product routine with you that same day. This usually costs around $200 to $250. Those are the only products you’ll be using for the remainder of the program, and clients replenish their stock every four to eight weeks. After that initial meeting, there’s a check-in every two weeks for the rest of the program (which lasts around four months). Check-ups include peels, extractions, or LED treatment; it all depends on what your skin needs are at that time. It’s a 16-week program, and you can expect to be spending around $140 a month on treatments and the additional refills of your products. It’s a commitment but one that offers serious results.

“We went completely virtual with our acne program, which yielded amazing results without the need to come in for regular treatments,” Pavitt says. “If a client is in NYC, we also happily see them in-studio for additional help towards clearing, but we are also consulting a lot with clients out of state, shipping them their products, and checking in virtually to clear them up.”

Many of Pavitt’s clients don’t realize they’re contributing to their acne. “They’re using comedogenic ingredients not only in their skincare but also hair care and body care. And by using the wrong type of vitamins and supplements,” she notes. This is for a whole host of reasons we go into during our consults.”

Pavitt notes that she can usually tell within two check-ins if a client will be successful on the program. “I can tell just from the way they approach our direction. Some clients don’t want to stop using their comedogenic shampoos and makeup, for example, and that will slow their results,” she says. “I always manage people’s expectations on just how long the clearing process can take, too — there are no overnight results.”

Pimples are bad enough—but when they’re painful, it can feel like adding insult to injury. And that’s just one reason nodular acne can suck. Unlike the kind of zits most of us are used to—the ones we try to resist squeezing and picking at—nodular acne goes much deeper, literally. Nanuet, New York–based, board-certified dermatologist Heidi Waldorf, MD, likens nodular acne to icebergs: “It’s solid above and below the skin,” she explains. Because nodular acne is completely under the skin, it’s important to see a dermatologist to make sure you’re getting the right treatment.

But first, a bit more on how to know whether your acne is actually nodular acne.

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What Is Nodular Acne and What Does It Look Like?
According to New York City–based, board-certified dermatologist Morgan Rabach, MD, “nodular acne is a severe, deep form of acne where the clogged pore progresses into a bump that is completely under the skin.” What this means is that the bump is not communicating with the surface of the skin—so it’s impossible to simply extract this kind of pimple. “It’s usually a bump the patient can feel, it’s deep into the dermis and is painful most of the time (because that’s where the nerves hang out),” Rabach explains.

Nodular acne can appear the same color as skin, but more often becomes red and inflamed—a result, Rabach explains, “of your immune system attempting to break up and absorb the dead skin, sebum, and other inflammatory cell debris that collects under the skin.”

Because nodular acne lives in the dermis, in the same place where our collagen is, it’s often accompanied by scarring. “What happens is the nodules push the collagen aside, and inflammation surrounding the nodule also changes or damages the collagen,” Rabach notes. When the stubborn bumps finally go away, they leave indentations—aka acne scars.

What Causes Nodular Acne?
It can be hard to pinpoint the cause of nodular acne, Rabach explains. “Idiopathic nodular acne is by far the most common,” she says. “This means we really can’t point a finger at an underlying cause, and so we say it’s a mixture of genetics and environment.” If one of your parents has dealt with acne nodules, you’re more likely to as well.

Many of the other causes of nodular acne, according to Westport, Connecticut–based, board-certified dermatologist Rhonda Klein, MD, have to do with “keeping the pore open and clear for natural, healthy function.” Below, she explains these potential causes.

Excess sebum: Nodular acne can occur when “too much sebum clogs up a pore and creates an ideal environment for bacteria to fester.”
Dead skin cells: “Similarly, if dead skin cells become backlogged within the pore, they mix with sebum and bacteria and become infected nodules.”
Bacteria: “The presence of P. acnes bacteria will lead to acne. When that bacteria is present in a closed, clogged pore, you will see it manifest as nodular acne.”
Androgen hormones: Hormones can also be a trigger. “Hormonal fluctuations can trigger acne, but shifts in the androgen or ‘male’ hormones are specifically linked to nodular outbreaks.” This is because these male hormones increase sebaceous oil gland production. This, in turn, leads to oil building up in the pores.
According to Klein, most often more than one of these causes occurs and leads to nodular acne. Fortunately, she notes, “most of the treatment modalities will complement one another.”

Finally, Rabach notes, “certain medications can lead to nodulocystic acne like lithium and oral steroids. Steroids act like stress hormones, leading to increased oil production. Something like lithium causes inflammation leading to increased oil production.”

How Is Nodular Acne Treated?
The good news is that dermatologists know that when they see nodular acne, oral medication is required. Rabach notes: “It is a little more involved because it requires oral medication. It’s definitely a type of acne where it’s better to see a dermatologist than take a DIY approach. I like to think of it this way: Topical medication can permeate the epidermis only so far. Nodular acne hides beneath where a cream can get. You need oral medication, and thankfully we have medication that works!” If you suspect you might have nodular acne, make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist right away—the faster you treat the nodules, the more likely you will be able to avoid dealing with scarring afterward.

Oral Medications
Spironolactone: This acne-fighting drug works by “binding to testosterone receptors, blocking testosterone from activating oil in the sebaceous glands,” Rabach explains. Less oil means fewer blocked pores, and therefore less acne.
Birth control: By regulating female hormones, birth control “prevents spikes in androgens (aka male hormones). Keeping testosterone low really helps reduce overproduction of oil.”
Antibiotics
“Antibiotics have anti-inflammatory effects and also kill propionibacterium acnes (aka P. acnes), which can lead to breakouts.”

Accutane: “This is a derivative of vitamin A, which permanently decreases the size and activity of oil glands. Without oil around, the bacteria that contribute to acne decrease.”
Topical medications: Most often, Rabach notes, a topical medication is used in tandem with the oral medication. “An oral medication can really help reduce the number of new deep cysts that appear from the inside out. Use of topical medications in conjunction can make active acne spots heal faster and reduce pigmentation and scarring,” she says
Retinol: The standby hero ingredient works by reducing sebaceous gland activity.
Topical Antibiotics
Topical antibiotics can help “reduce inflammation and also reduce P. acnes, the main bacteria that contributes to inflammatory acne.”

Salicylic acid: Salicylic acid is a keratolytic, which means it “sloughs off the dead skin that both lines the pores and the outside of the skin to help reduce clogging.”
Benzoyl peroxide: Benzoyl peroxide helps reduce inflammatory cells, kills P. acnes bacteria, and helps reduce oil.
In-Office Treatments
Finally, as Rabach notes, in-office treatments and interventions can also help address inflammation, heal nodules, and address scarring left in their wake.

Chemical peels: “Chemical peels reduce dead skin around hair follicles and reduce oil production.”
Intralesional steroids: “Injecting intralesional steroids reduces inflammation surrounding nodular acne.”
Incisions: “An incision releases trapped white blood cells, propionibacterium acnes, oil, and keratin in nodules.”
Microneedling: “Microneedling triggers collagen regeneration after acne scarring, but also helps skin regenerate faster overall.”

If you have acne (especially the recurring kind), you’ve probably tried about every treatment known to man to try to combat it. Take it from me—in my teens, I tried using toothpaste (which ended up all over my pillow and never on my face) as well as Noxzema and Oil-Free Neutrogena Acne Wash. I also didn’t moisturize because I thought the oil would make me break out more. What a time. In my 20s, I had a retin-A prescription and was on birth control (great, until it wasn’t), and now I’m in my 30s, and as luck would have it, I’m still getting hormonal acne breakouts.

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As a beauty writer, I’m always on the hunt for the latest, most innovative acne treatments. That’s when I found out about Isolaz, a new-to-me professional treatment that could help treat acne in a painless, non-invasive way. If you’re like me and you’ve struggled to get your acne under control, the Isolaz treatment might be something to consider.

Below, we break down everything you need to know before you schedule your first Isolaz acne treatment.

Alexis Parcells, MD, is a board-certified plastic surgeon based in New Jersey.
Jennifer Chwalek, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City.
What Is Isolaz?
The Isolaz treatment (which is FDA approved, by the way) is a machine that combines the power of Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and vacuum technology to deep cleanse your pores and reduce acne. According to Alexis Parcells, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon, “Isolaz is an in-office therapy designed to combat acne,” she says. “This technology, called photopneumatics, combines the effects of laser therapy with a vacuum. The vacuum works to loosen and suck debris from inside the pore, while the laser destroys the acne that causes the breakout and decreases the production of bacteria from the sebaceous gland.” Anyone who has mild to moderate acne and blackheads on their face, back, and chest is a candidate for the treatment.

However, Isolaz is not designed to treat cystic acne.

Isolaz also helps prevent future breakouts, as it gets all of the bacteria and oil out of your pores that cause acne. Jennifer Chwalek, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, says, “Isolaz is a broadband light with a vacuum head that gently compresses this skin closer to the light as it is firing. This helps to reduce the bacteria and inflammation that are involved in acne.” With all the bacteria gone, it has nowhere to grow, and after repeated treatments, the bacteria should be gone altogether. We love to see it.

Isolaz is performed by a specially trained esthetician or dermatologist. Chwalek recommends three to five treatments to see visible, long-lasting results, although you should notice a significant improvement in your acne after the first treatment.

“Isolaz painlessly cleanses and disinfects the skin’s surfaces, while promoting healing,” Parcells says. “It has been shown to decrease pore size, remove oil and debris, and improve skin texture and pore size. It works on any skin type. The most common areas affected include the face, chest, and back.” If your skin has not had any response to topical acne treatments like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), benzoyl peroxide, retin-A, antibiotics, and even Accutane, you might want to add the Isolaz treatment to your regimen. Studies have shown that the Isolaz treatment provides a significant reduction in acne (citation).

And like Parcells mentioned earlier, the treatment is completely painless (in a study, 100 percent of users said they experienced zero pain). It also doesn’t require any downtime, and is relatively quick—it takes only about 30 minutes to treat the face, and slightly longer to treat other, larger areas of the body. Depending on the severity of your acne outbreak, you might need anywhere from two to six sessions to see long-lasting results.

How to Prepare for an Isolaz Treatment
You can continue to use all of your regular skincare products before your Isolaz treatment. This includes all of your regular acne treatments as well, with the exception of isotretinoin (aka Accutane). This medication can change the way your body responds to the Isolaz treatment.

Oh, and if you’re a fan of spray tanning, using self-tanner, or enjoy spending time in the sun, you’ll want to avoid that. Chwalek says, “Prior to any laser treatments, it’s important to avoid the sun. Having a tan increases the risk of pigment issues following treatment.” She also recommends finding a laser specialist. “It’s also important to seek treatment with a practitioner who is skilled in laser surgery, especially if you have darker skin,” Chwalek says.

If it’s possible, you should also come to your appointment with clean, makeup-free skin.

We put the iS Clinical Cleansing Complex to the test after receiving a complimentary sample from the brand. Keep reading for our full product review.

Washing your face seems simple enough—boring even. But the truth is, a proper cleansing routine is integral when it comes to skin health. Sure, you want to remove makeup, sebum, and sunscreen, but you always want to refine the skin’s texture and get it perfectly prepped for the remainder of your routine.

I personally love using treatment cleansers to boost my complexion. I’m going to wash my face anyway—why not spend an extra minute and really take it up a notch? Enter iS Clinical’s Cleansing Complex, a lightweight gel product that contains BHAs to unclog pores and other botanicals to soothe and calm. I’m a big fan of iS Clinical already (you can read my love letter to the brand’s Active Serum here), so my hopes when testing this cleanser were high. In a nutshell, it exceeded every expectation, but of course, I detailed every single thought about it here.

ABOUT THE BRAND: Founded in California, iS Clinical is a skincare line that uses pharmaceutical-grade ingredients in order to achieve best results for the skin. Sold in over 60 countries, the brand utilizes some of the most innovative ingredients in the market, and is known for its results-driven, scientific approach.

About My Skin: Occasionally breakout-prone
My skin is mostly normal but prone to breakouts, dehydration, and uneven tone (fun). I’ve always been big on exfoliation to keep my skin clear and bright, specifically with beta-hydroxy acids to help clear out pores. I am also a fan of treatment cleansers—why wouldn’t you make the most of the time spent washing your face by incorporating some active ingredients? That’s why I love the iS Clinical Cleansing Complex—not only does it clean the skin but it also sloughs off surface cells and refines the texture.

The Ingredients: Pore-clearing agents
The iS Clinical Cleansing Complex is a really light, gel cleanser that foams ever so slightly when emulsified with water. It contains the surfactant disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, so it dissolves sebum without stripping. There’s also white willow bark, a source of salicylic acid (and a known BHA) to mildly exfoliate and unclog pores; centella extract to soothe; sugarcane to refine skin surface texture, and chamomile to reduce redness.

How to Use: Massage it in properly
Personally I like this as a second cleanse, because A) I wear a lot of sunscreen, so I always double-up, and B) it’s expensive, so I’d rather remove makeup with something cheaper (like Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water). But in terms of use, it’s really simple. I just work it into damp skin for a good minute, concentrating on my nose and chin, before rinsing. You can use it both morning and night, too.

The Results: Clear skin that’s not stripped
iS Clinical Cleansing Complex Results on Emily Algar
EMILY ALGAR/DESIGN BY CRISTINA CIANCI
What stands out to me most about the iS Clinical Cleansing Complex is that it seems to clear out pores and reduce shine without stripping the skin in the slightest (a rarity when it comes to gel cleansers). I’ve been using it consistently for months now, and I’ve definitely noticed smaller pores on my nose and chin, and fewer bumps around my hairline. I still like using a dedicated BHA, but there’s no doubt the Cleansing Complex is a fantastic second cleanser.

Given you use it properly—that is, massage it in for at least 30 seconds, ideally a minute—you’ll get a really gentle cleanse, clearer pores, and a more refined skin texture. It definitely doesn’t have the same impact as a dedicated chemical exfoliant or clarifying serum, but it’s a great option for rough, uneven or congested skin.

It’s also one of the few gel cleansers I’ve tried that doesn’t leave my skin feeling devoid of all moisture. Oily complexions will love it year-round, or you might prefer it during the summer months to combat excess sweat, shine, and sunscreen application.

The Value: An investment
$44 is steep for a cleanser, so if your sole purpose is to simply remove makeup, I’d probably suggest you find yourself a cheaper drugstore option. But if you want to simultaneously refine and renew, it’s worth the extra cash.

Similar Products: You’ve got options
Kiehl’s Blue Herbal Acne Cleanser Treatment: This fresh, foamy cleanser from Kiehl’s ($25) contains salicylic acid to unclog pores and help prevent acne from forming. It also contains ginger, frankincense, and witch hazel to reduce shine and refine the skin texture.

Tatcha The Deep Cleanse Exfoliating Cleanser: If you want to simultaneously exfoliate and nourish the skin, this gentle pick from Tatcha ($38) is gold class. The exfoliation specifically comes from ground luffa fruit, alongside the brand’s signature blend of algae, green tea, and rice to soothe and brighten.

Cosmedix Purity Clean: Similar to the iS Clinical option, Purity Clean ($39) contains a BHA (in the form of lactic acid) to unclog pores, whereas tea tree and peppermint calm and refresh. It offers a gentle means of resurfacing the skin, making it a great choice for uneven or rough complexions.

Excess oil production and inflammation caused by things like stress, hormones, and genetics are leading causes of acne that develops on the face and body. According to a Harvard Health Publishing article, adult acne, which happens to be on the rise, can also be caused by things like bacteria and inflamed hair follicles.1 It’s no wonder, then, that the pubic region is also a spot where breakouts tend to flare up. Sometimes, this happens along the bikini line; other times, pores on your vulva can become clogged, causing blackheads on private areas.

Ahead, two leading cosmetic dermatologists and a celebrity aesthetician and dermatologic nurse explain how to treat vaginal acne.

Natalie Aguilar is a celebrity aesthetician and dermatological nurse. She practices at her exclusive N4 Skincare studio in West Hollywood.
Michele Green, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist specializing in acne treatment along with laser resurfacing and other cosmetic treatments.
Marina I. Peredo, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skinfluence NYC.
What Is Vaginal Acne?
Although common, breakouts along the bikini line and groin are, according to Green, “very upsetting for my patients. Without warning, many people develop sebaceous cysts or acne-type eruptions in the groin and vaginal area. It is very important to stay on top of these things as serious bacterial infections can occur.” She explains there are a couple of different types of breakouts that can develop, including a “comedonal lesion (much like a blackhead), a papule, pustule (pus filled lesion), or cyst (which are generally larger and more painful).”

According to Peredo, one of the most common types of acne that can develop on the genitals is folliculitis. “Folliculitis is inflammation around the hair follicles, typically as a result of shaving. The hair gets trapped under the skin and becomes clogged,” she explains. “Folliculitis can also occur from wearing tight clothing and ingrown hairs. The hair in the genital area tends to be curly, so it is more common for folliculitis to occur. The key is to make sure that you have good personal hygiene after shaving.”

Ingrown hairs are easy to identify, as Green says you can often “visualize a bump underneath” that appears as a “small black dot.”

Another highly common type of vaginal acne is hidradenitis suppurativa, which is what Peredo calls “inverse acne. These are large, painful cysts that normally affect the vaginal area, genital area, under the arms or under the breasts. This occurs when sweat glands get clogged.2 They can be painful and don’t heal very well, which can result in scars. Hidradenitis suppurativa can be treated with Accutane.” Green notes that this type of acne and “infection can be so large and painful that oral antibiotics, cortisone injections, and surgical excision are often necessary to treat this.”

Although vaginal acne is common, Aguilar notes that “there are also a number of other conditions, some infectious, that may be mistaken for vaginal pimples such as yeast or viruses,” so it’s important to keep an eye on any type of breakouts on the groin area.

Causes and Prevention
Aguilar says that clogged pores can contribute to vaginal acne. “Vaginal pimples can form when dirt, sweat, and bacteria build up inside a pore, causing inflammation.” As aforementioned, these types of pimples, are, according to Aguilar, “just like pimples on any other part of our face and body. They can be small, or they can be big.”

Irritation or excess heat, according to Green, is another cause of vaginal acne. “Many people, especially during the summer, exercise, swim, and stay out in the heat without showering. The perspiration and clogged pores, especially in the buttock and vaginal area, can cause acne breakouts.”

If the breakout results from contact dermatitis, Green says “exposure to different chemicals, creams, laundry detergent, fragrance, sanitary pads, feminine wipes, perfume, fragrant bubble baths or lotions, or anything else that comes in contact with the vaginal area” can be the culprit. “Occlusion from heat, sweating, tight clothes, spandex (and other fabrics other than cotton) can cause this type of acne or cysts in the vaginal area,” explains Green.

To avoid folliculitis, especially if you’re prone to developing ingrown hairs, Green advises laser hair removal “to treat the bikini area.”

As tempting as it may be to perform extractions on your bikini line, our experts advise against this. “It is best not to try to extract ingrown hairs yourself,” says Green, “since you need to lance the skin under sterile procedures. It is best to leave that to the professionals in order to avoid infection.”

Aguilar suggests a DIY mask for the bikini area that’s made from full-fat non-flavored Greek yogurt. “It balances the pH, relieves itchiness, provides beneficial bacteria, and the gentle lactic acid, found in yogurt, provides a gentle exfoliation,” she explains.

Keep the area clean and pH balanced. “It’s best to clean the bikini line with appropriate pH-balanced cleansers made for the vaginal area,” suggests Aguilar. “Other cleansers can irritate and throw off the pH of the area, causing a bacterial imbalance and making it an ideal environment for bacteria.”

Compresses are a good solution, to “bring down inflammation and calm some of the pain,” says Aguilar. “You can, however, hold a warm water compress, followed by an ice-cold water compress.” Peredo is also a fan of warm compresses, followed by a spot treatment. “Benzoyl peroxide is a great product to use to prevent breakouts,” she says.

Aguilar suggests you apply “Fur’s Ingrown Concentrate Oil. This oil can be applied post-shave or after cleansing. It helps soothe irritation and lightens discoloration.” She also likes Completely Bare Bikini Bump Blaster Pads, which are saturated in witch hazel, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid. “This blend helps reduce the appearance of ingrown hairs and bikini bumps.” Plus, she loves the acidic combo: “It’s amazing for blemishes and keeping the pores fresh, clean and balanced,” she says.

Peredo advises against squeezing the pimple, as it can spread the infection and cause serious problems.

To prevent further infection, you might have to see a doctor, even to treat an ingrown hair. “If it doesn’t resolve within two to five days and it becomes more painful, you may need to see a gynecologist or dermatologist,” advises Aguilar. She notes a doctor can “recommend a topical or oral antibiotic to soothe inflammation and prevent further infection. They may also have to extract the hair.”

She says these these types of breakouts shouldn’t be embarrassing. “Anyone who grooms, whether it be shaving, waxing, trimming, plucking, sugaring, or even cleansing, can be prone to [folliculitis]. I also have several clients who are prone to ingrown hairs simply from riding a bike. It is more common than we will ever know.”

Finally, a physician’s diagnosis is always a good idea with these types of breakouts. According to Peredo, there are lesions that may look like acne, but in fact may be sexually transmitted diseases or infections. “Herpes on the genital area can appear as a pimple, but it’s really a vesicle, a fluid-filled pimple,” she says. “Molluscum contagiosum can often be confused with acne because it looks like tiny brown bumps with a dimple in the center. This virus is sexually transmitted.”

Similar to condyloma, or vaginal warts, “molluscum contagiosum can spread,” says Green, “and needs to be treated.”

Finally, any discharge or odor from the vaginal area, according to Green, should warrant a consultation with a board-certified dermatologist “to assist you before the problem becomes more serious.”

o, you woke up feeling as if a behemoth of a zit had formed somewhere on your face. But when you ran over to the mirror to look, there was nothing in sight. We’ve all been there—such is the reality of underground cystic zits.

And while we’ve all likely made the horrible decision to try to get hands-on with such a zit, we’ve also likely learned that that’s just about the worst thing you can do for your skin. After all, more often than not, those deep, often throbbing pimples will not pop to the surface from manipulation, meaning the only thing you’ll get out of squeezing is a whole lot of redness and an even longer recovery time. This ultimately begs the question: How can you stop a zit from forming? To find out, we chatted with three board-certified dermatologists for their top tips. Keep scrolling to commit them all to memory.
MEET THE EXPERT

Tina Alster, MD, is a Washington, D.C.–based board-certified dermatologist and the creator and co-founder of The A Method.
Michele Green, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. She is a member of Byrdie’s Beauty & Wellness Review Board.
01

Keep Your Skin Clean
If you feel a pimple coming on, the last thing you want to do is give it reason to fester any further. With that in mind, board-certified dermatologist Tina Alster, MD, says to keep your skin as clean as possible when trying to halt a zit in its path.

“Not only will this tip help to prevent those breakouts, it will also reduce the duration and severity of a breakout episode,” she explains. “So, if you feel a zit forming, you will want to make sure you are properly cleansing your skin. Remember, it’s never too late to start!” With that in mind, she recommends using a cleanser formulated with glycolic, salicylic, and/or lactic acids (like Cetaphil’s new Gentle Clear Clarifying Acne Cream Cleanser, $9.99), which she says will not only help to clean the skin but also keep pores clear of cellular debris.

02

Wear a Clean Mask
“With ongoing mask mandates, our faces can become a breeding ground for bacteria,” says Alster. “Maskne (mask-induced acne) can not only produce a sudden outbreak on the surface but also spawn those zits that develop in deeper layers of the skin.” The reason being that dead skin cells, surface bacteria, and sweat get trapped under the mask, as well as within its fibers. So if you are a repeat wearer, you could be unintentionally exposing your skin to acne-causing bacteria. In other words, convenient as it may be, Alster says to always reach for a new, clean mask.
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03

Whatever You Do… Don’t Touch Your Face
It’s not just about trying to avoid popping a pimple—it’s about not touching your face at all. After all, even with hand sanitizer almost always in reach these days, bacteria still lives on your fingers and hands, and touching your face is the quickest way to accidentally transfer it.

But, while we’re on the topic of touching, just in case you aren’t fully convinced not to try your hand at popping, board-certified dermatologist Michele Green, MD, has a word of warning.

“Popping a pimple is never a good idea, but even less so when the pimple has not yet come to a head,” she explains. “Because the pimple does not have a channel connecting it directly to the surface of the skin, the sebum, dead skin cells, and debris trapped inside the skin cannot be successfully extracted yet.” As a result, picking and attempting to pop can force that debris to swell under the surface, which can potentially lead to an infection, not to mention permanent scarring. So, again, hands off!
04

Control the Inflammation
Cystic zits are known for their throbbing, swollen nature—even when there’s no head in sight. And it’s because of those uncomfortable side effects that folks try to take matters into their own hands by popping. Instead, Green recommends applying a warm compress, which can encourage pores to open up, which will relieve some of the pressure. If you prefer cold temperatures, though, Alster says that applying ice can also help to relieve pain and irritation associated with angry, under-the-surface acne.

05
Balance Oil With Oil
Now this might sound counter-intuitive, but board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, says that applying a facial oil to the inflamed area can actually help soothe the spot. “Balance oil production and clear pores with Lord Jones Pore Detox CBD Face Oil ($68),” she recommends. “This is an incredible hydrating CBD facial oil that helps clarify skin by balancing sebum (oil) production and soothing redness with blue tansy, tea tree oil, and niaouli oil. I recommend incorporating it into your regular skincare routine to improve skin tone over time, but it also works great for spot treating.”

One thing I took away from all those acne commercials on TV is that it’s mostly a teen thing. Guess what—it’s not. While similar in cause and symptoms to adolescent acne, adult acne is emerging as its own condition, and according to a recent study, it’s on the rise among both men and women. While the study revealed a higher percentage of cases in women, when it comes to adult acne, men, in particular, can be prone to the condition.

Whether you’ve had acne all your life or are getting your first bout with blemishes well into adulthood, you’ll be glad to know there is plenty you can do about it. To help us understand the causes behind adult acne men face as well as how to manage it, we talked to one of today’s top dermatologists to get their expert opinion on both the facts and the fixes.

01

What Is Adult Acne?
According to the National Institutes of Health, “Acne is a common skin condition that happens when hair follicles under the skin become clogged. Oil and dead skin cells plug the pores, and outbreaks of lesions (often called pimples or zits) can happen. Most often, the outbreaks occur on the face but can also appear on the back, chest, and shoulders.”

The article even touched upon the belief that acne is a teen thing, stating that “for most people, acne tends to go away by the time they reach their thirties, but some people in their forties and fifties continue to have this skin problem.”

The difference between teen acne and adult acne comes down to cause and treatment, explains Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the Shafer Clinic. “Teenagers usually experience more acne because of hormone fluctuations in their changing bodies, which can cause increased oil production and subsequent breakouts. Adult acne can be caused by hormones (especially if they are on a medication or treatment that alters their natural balance of hormones), but more commonly, adult acne is due to stress, diet, personal habits, and individual predisposition.”

And like its younger cousin, adult acne can also show up anywhere on the body, especially in areas that tend to be sweaty and moist like the face, arms, shoulders, and back.

02

Causes and Prevention of Adult Acne in Men
When it comes to adult acne men face in particular, Engelman says, first and foremost, hormones are the name of the game. “The male body produces higher levels of testosterone (compared with women), which is linked to oil production in the sebaceous glands, leading to more oily skin and clogged pores.” But it’s our lifestyle choices as adults that can play a role in the formation of adult acne that men face as well, from stress to grooming habits.

Like facial hair. Beards and mustaches can act as a trap for acne-causing bacteria and oil, Engelman said. Plus, the products we use may not be appropriate for our skin. “Men tend to use harsh cleansing and scrubbing products, which strip the skin of natural oils and weaken the skin barrier, putting them at greater risk of developing acne. And when acne is present, they don’t go through the necessary steps to get rid of it in a safe, effective way.”

Safe and effective are the key words here, as many of us, upon experiencing a crop of blemishes in our adult years, would head to the acne aisle at the drugstore and layer on harsh, drying ingredients like we did in our teens—back when our skin was way more resilient. Or using one of the many 3-in-1 type cleansers marketed to men nowadays that are fine for our bodies but have no business anywhere near our faces.

Treating adult acne in men comes down to using the right products packed with safe, gentle, and effective ingredients with an anti-aging twist. Below are Engelman’s suggestions for morning and nighttime skincare routines:

03
mends using a cleanser with salicylic or glycolic acid to help slough away dead skin cells that could clog pores, preventing breakouts before they start. There are plenty out there today that are as gentle as they are tough on breakouts, such as La Roche Posay Effaclar Medicated Gel Cleanser, which contains both salicylic acid and skin-soothing glycerin.

Tone (Optional)
Engelman suggests a clarifying toner that contains salicylic or glycolic acid to help further relieve congestion or breakouts. However, doubling up on these ingredients just after cleansing could lead to excess dryness, so only tone if your skin can tolerate it.

Apply Eye Cream
As a product that’s synonymous with adulthood, eye cream is a daily must, but if you’re dealing with adult acne, stay away from anything too rich and occlusive and instead opt for a lightweight, gel-type eye treatment packed with powerful hydrators like hyaluronic acid, such as Neutrogena Hydro Boost Eye Gel-Cream.

Moisturize
Moisturization is still an essential step for the adult acne–afflicted, as it helps maintain healthy barrier function and lock in essential moisture. Keep it light, such as Cetaphil Oil-Free Hydrating Lotion. For an added anti-aging and anti-acne boost, Engelman also recommends layering a vitamin C serum underneath, like Glo Skin Beauty C-Shield Anti-Pollution Drops.

Apply SPF
Forget every myth you’ve ever heard about the sun being beneficial for acne. It never was and it never will be. Engelman recommends an oil-free sunscreen to keep skin safe without clogging pores, like Glo Skin Beauty Oil Free SPF 40+.

04

Nighttime Skincare Routine
Washing your face before going to bed is a must, Engelman says, whether or not you suffer from adult acne. At night, our skin goes into “healing mode,” so she suggests adding spot treatments and chemical exfoliants to your routine to help heal and prevent active adult acne.

Cleanse
You can use the same cleanser as in the morning, but if you tend to wear makeup during the day, Engelman recommends double cleansing, starting with an oil cleanser to remove impurities without stripping the skin, such as Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Replenishing Cleansing Oil. Then you can follow with your regular cleanser or—if you find it too irritating to use after double cleansing—a milder cleanser.

Tone (Optional)
As we said above, this step is completely up to you—only tone if you’re sure it won’t over-dry skin.

Exfoliating Treatment
Engelman says regular treatments using chemical exfoliants are great for everyone as they promote cell turnover, purifying skin, and unclog pores—all of which are vital to healing and preventing adult acne in men . She recommends the Ambari Beauty Gold Profection22 Mask, which packs a heavy dose of glycolic acid to resurface and refine skin.

Apply Eye Cream
Like in the morning, use a lightweight, hydrating eye cream that won’t clog pores.

Spot Treat
With no makeup or SPF to get in the way at night, Engelman recommends focusing on problem areas with targeted spot treatments containing active ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, like Humane Acne Spot Treatment Gel, or adapalene, like Differin Gel, which should be used all over the face.

Moisturize
At night, you’ll want to use a light moisturizer full of hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to help maintain skin’s moisture barrier, as well as vitamins, antioxidants, and extracts that can aid in the fight against adult acne. Choose a formulation without SPF, such as Paula’s Choice Water-Infusing Electrolyte Moisturizer.

05

Other Considerations
Engelman points out that the adult acne men experience could be a sign of other underlying health conditions, including more severe hormonal imbalances, as well as unhelpful environmental factors such as unclean air or something in the water you’re drinking. If you’re experiencing more than just a few pimples here and there, or notice that the problem persists beyond a couple of weeks, it may be worth seeing a dermatologist to get to the bottom of it.

Acne has been historically treated as a flaw in the beauty and fashion industry. People with chronic skin conditions like acne were not widely represented in campaign imagery or on runways in decades past. In recent years, these industries have gone through a reckoning of sorts, resulting in more inclusivity of individuals with textured skin. As these spaces have evolved, movements like “acne positivity” have also taken center stage.

The goal of these movements is not only to bring awareness to the lack of diversity in these industries but to also change the landscape in terms of representation. Celebrating different skin types in fashion and beauty has also allowed even more nuanced perspectives to develop. Attitudes towards skin now exist on a wider spectrum, with “neutrality” becoming a more common stance amongst individuals and brands.

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What Is “Acne Neutrality?”
Many people in the health and wellness space have adopted neutral perspectives on body image. Regarding “body neutrality,” certified personal trainer and inclusive fitness expert Lauren Leavell told Byrdie: “Going from ‘I do not like my body’ to ‘I love my body’ can be a stretch for a lot of people. ‘Body neutrality’ offers a space to observe without judgment and forced positivity.”

The same thinking applies to “acne neutrality.” As someone who has been on Accutane twice, approaching my ever-evolving relationship with my skin from a neutral angle is more realistic and helpful. There are days I wake up with active breakouts, and I feel hopeless. Being bombarded with the beauty standard of crystal-clear, glass-like skin impacts the mental health of those who deal with skin conditions in multiple ways. Describing human skin in ways that reflect non-human objects is ultimately harmful in the long run.

Being bombarded with the beauty standard of crystal-clear, glass-like skin impacts the mental health of those who deal with skin conditions.

While the intention behind “acne positivity” is well-meaning, it fails to consider the times in our lives when we don’t feel our best. This philosophy also doesn’t leave room for it to feel okay to have these feelings. “Acne neutrality” makes it easier to acknowledge the highs and lows that come along with having a chronic skin condition.

“Acne Neutrality” in the Beauty Industry
The beauty industry has made notable strides when it comes to highlighting various types of skin conditions like acne and vitiligo. Brands like Topicals have made a considerable effort to normalize showing models with acne, large pores, skin texture, and ingrown hairs within their advertising. They have even incorporated the concept of acne neutrality into their brand philosophy, saying their products are “skincare for funner flare-ups.”

Celebrities have also become more vocal regarding their personal experiences with acne. Keke Palmer discussed her journey of being diagnosed with Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS) on social media. She provided an honest account of how she handles this within her life. “My skin has made me sad many nights, but I do not give up on myself,” she wrote on Instagram. When public figures like Palmer have candid conversations about their skin-related struggles, it can help their fans better navigate these same issues and move the industry forward.

Final Thoughts
To date, there are 856 #acneneutrality posts on Instagram. Until the “acne neutrality” movement becomes more widely discussed, we will continue to see gradual shifts in how skin conditions are presented in ad campaigns or discussed in the media. To move the needle even further, we need to continue to uplift those vocal about their acne journeys (and all the ups and downs that come with it).

We all know that exercise is good for us, including for our skin, as increased blood flow brings nourishing nutrients to your largest organ. However, workout-related breakouts are a real problem for many people. This is because increased sweat and dirt block the pores, which can cause the skin to react in the form of unwanted acne.

Breakouts are caused by pore-blocking sweat, dirt, and oils that encourage bacterial growth. Certain bacteria called propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) proliferate in blocked pores and cause an immune response that leads to pimples. Anywhere you sweat while working out is an area that can develop pimples (like the face, under your bra, or the lower back).

But don’t let acne perturb you from reaping the endless benefits of exercise. By simply understanding the most common causes of workout-related acne and ways to avoid those causes, you can enjoy your workouts acne-free.

To get to the bottom of exactly what causes workout-related breakouts and how to avoid them, we spoke to two dermatologists, Dr. Jeannette Graf and Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali.

Dr. Jeannette Graf, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt Sinai School of Medicine.
Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali, MD is the dermatologist and digital health entrepreneur behind Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery.

01

Remove Your Makeup and Start With a Clean Face
Washing your face before you workout can get rid of bacteria and dirt that are already on your skin; since exercise opens your pores, these breakout exacerbators will enter them more easily.

Removing your makeup is vital as well since makeup and even face creams or sunscreen can block your pores and become trapped, increasing bacterial growth.

“The combination of makeup and sweat will clog pores and can potentially cause breakouts. Carry small astringent pads with you such as witch hazel wipes to periodically wipe off the sweat and oil during your workout to prevent oil clogging,” says Dr. Graf.

To reduce the amount of sweat and bacteria that find their way onto your skin, consider wearing a clean, breathable headband. This is especially important if you wear hair products that irritate the skin when they drip onto your face while sweating.

02

Cleanse Your Face After Your Workout
Of course, washing your face directly after your workout is essential. “Ideally, something with salicylic acid (2 percent strength) to clear the pores from sweat and oil,” says Dr. Bhanusali. Just make sure you use a clean towel to dry your face gently afterward.

03

Towels are great companions for workouts because of how absorbent they are of sweat—but that means they’re also pros at absorbing bacteria, oil, and dirt. It’s great to blot away sweat during your workouts, but just make sure you’re using a clean towel for each new workout. We recommend the Resoré Face Towel—it’s made of a super fluffy, antibacterial fabric that’s specifically designed to kill acne-causing bacteria.

04

For Body Acne, Shower Straight Away
Showering right after your workout can prevent breakout-causing bacteria and fungus from sitting on your skin and multiplying. “It’s common to see fungal folliculitis that can look like acne. This is common in our patients who do workout classes and then head to brunch without showering,” says Bhanusali.

“After your workout, it’s important to cleanse away sweat and bacteria, which ultimately prevents your pores from getting clogged. To help prevent pimples, try a soothing serum like W3LL People Bio Brightener Priming Serum and a fragrance-free cream like Keys Soulcare Skin Transformation Cream (fragrance-free) after you wash your face.

If you don’t have time for a full shower, wash your face, or use a shower cap and rinse your body at a minimum.

05

Shared equipment or even your own equipment used without being washed can contain bacterial growth that leads to breakouts. Cleaning your equipment before use, especially if it is shared, is an excellent way to prevent exposure to this bacteria.

“Always wipe down your exercise equipment whether it’s a home gym or public gym. Sanitizing equipment before use will help get rid of the bacteria and dirt that may potentially find its way to your skin, causing breakouts as a result,” says Graf.

Wipe down free weights, machines, and handles of equipment before use as well as afterward. For your own pieces such as yoga mats, straps, Pilates balls, or any other tools, spray them down with a cleaning product designed for that purpose after each use and allow them to air dry if possible.

06

Bhanusali recommends always washing your workout clothing after each workout session. Sweaty clothing can harbor bacteria and fungus that lead to breakouts. Don’t forget about hats, headbands, helmets, or any other equipment that you wear while exercising. If additives and fragrances cause you to break out, look for a brand free from perfumes and harsh chemicals

07

Choosing clothing that is breathable and well-fitting can go a long way to preventing breakouts as well. If sweat is trapped under non-breathable fabrics, it can lead to breakouts. As well, if your clothing is tight and chafes your skin, it can push bacteria and dirt into the skin and irritate it to the point where it reacts with pimples and bumps.